JUNGLE LIFE

Our journey through Vietnam comes to an end tomorrow after a little over 3 weeks. Since getting here, we've been going non-stop, jumping from one adventure to the next, making the most of our limited time. Of note, we stopped in the modest town of Phong Nha for a week. For a town so small, it boasts some of the world's largest and most beautiful caves.

The first one we explored was Hàng Én, currently the third largest. To get there, we had to hike 10 kilometers in the jungle, crossing streams and hopping rocks. We learned that where there is limestone, there is potentially a cave. This one in particular has a beach planked by 2 bodies of water, deep enough to dive into. On one side, the water comes from underground, stagnant, but fresh and cool; on the other, the water comes from a river, flowing and warmed from the sun. Needless to say, we lost no time getting in, cannonballs underway. Dinner was served soon after, a feast of sorts consisting of roasted pork, fried chicken, sautéed morning glory, scrambled eggs, vegetable soup. We dined like kings. Our source of entertainment was singing along to pop music on a Samsung tablet connected to a pocket bluetooth speaker. At night, we retired to our tents, which lined the shore of the beach. Lights from within illuminated the otherwise dark, hollow earth. You get a giddy feeling knowing that only a dozen other people are there, sharing in such a magnificent sight. The next morning, the sun slowly crept in, bringing with it natural light and life. We put on our helmets and gloves and hiked farther in to find a large gaping hole on the other side. If we closed our eyes and turned our heads, we might not have known which way was up, which way was down. Hiking out was easy, but for the last hour of straight uphill climbing.

Immediately the day after, we joined a 4-day, 3-night expedition that led us through 30 kilometers of dense jungle. Hidden within it is a cave system known as Tú Làn, explorable by abseiling, inner tubing, and swimming. Trekking through was like living a scene out of Jurassic Park, a veritable amusement park for adults. Each day was hot and humid and full of mosquito stings - we must have had at least a hundred bites among us all - but rewarded with a refreshing dip in nature's swimming holes. I couldn't help imagining myself as a true explorer, not knowing what awaited me at every turn.

There really are no words to describe the experience. The only other thing I could say is to make sure to include a visit to Phong Nha the next time you find yourself in Vietnam. It's worth the time and the money. 

JOURNAL RSS

HUONG AT HEART

Dad saw the ocean for the first time at the age of 17 on a trip to visit his younger brother. His heart palpitated as they approached the beach of Thuận An just outside of Huế. Before even arriving, he could see the palms of the trees and smell the salty ocean air. His senses excited. When asked, he vividly remembers the softness of the sand under his feet, warm to the touch, the sounds of the waves and the white foam as they crashed onto the beach. He was mesmerised by the convergence of heaven and earth in the horizon. 

Growing up, my parents gave us as normal an upbringing as they could, marrying American culture - what little they knew of it at the time - with Vietnamese tradition. We built sandcastles on the shore, bathed in the sun, and floated on the water until our skin wrinkled like raisins. 

At home, I've always known dad to seek peace by the ocean's side. He could spend hours by himself watching and listening to the ebb and flow of the tide. He loves photographing nature's course. 

These photographs were taken a few days back in the coastal city of Nha Trang. His older brother was stationed there during the Vietnam War. Though this is my third time visiting the country, it's the most nostalgic I've felt. I see memories of my parents sprinkled in each place we stop by. I see their young selves running through the corridors, up and down the stairs of their homes, through alleyways and neighborhood markets they knew so well. Then I imagine the turmoil they went through, their lives turned upside down by war, their struggles for a better life and for a better future. 

Despite the hardships, dad's soul is youthful, his life fulfilled. Without the bad, you can't know the good, he says. These days, he goes where the wind blows and today that place happens to be Saigon. He should have already been on a flight headed home right now, but as if answering an unspoken wish, I get to spend my birthday with him.

JOURNAL RSS

A MOVEABLE FEAST

My early 20s were spent saving up for trips back and forth to Paris. I loved this city so much. For me, it's always been the epitome of style, sophistication, class. I used to dream of owning a small flat there, riding my bicycle through narrow streets, promenading in the gardens, sunbathing on the Seine, reading on the metro, indulging in fresh baguettes every morning. Simple stuff.

When I graduated from university, I had the opportunity to assist teach in Versailles, but withdrew my application at the last minute. Time has a mysterious way of disappearing into life. Nine years rushed by and I found myself nearly forgetting how much my heart swoons for the art deco, savoir vivre, the culture, the romance. I buy into it all. I missed it without even knowing it.

On our short pass through Europe, we spent a few days in the City of Lights and it was like reacquainting myself with an old friend, the kind where conversation comes easily, picking up where we left off, not skipping a single beat. It seemed so much had changed - the air was fresher, the wine sweeter, life more romantic. Absence really makes the heart grow fonder. 

Under serendipitous circumstances, we found ourselves in the lovely company of friends from home, not just 1 or 2, but 9, all said and done. When did we get so lucky.

JOURNAL RSS