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LOST & FOUND

December 13, 2014 Pauline Nguyen
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We came to Santa Marta in search of Ciudad Perdida, an archaeological site nestled in Colombia's Sierra Nevada.

A Land Cruiser picked us up late morning along with 4 others and took us 2 hours to the start of the trek. Lunch was served and as we were enjoying our cold sandwiches, other hikers returning from the jungle began pouring in. They looked as though they were the ones lost and recently found: worn, sweaty, stinky, dirty. Yet, there was a sense of victory in their demeanor. Before leaving, they passed on their hiking sticks to us, confident we would need them.

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DEATH MOBILE

December 11, 2014 Pauline Nguyen
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We arrived in Maracaibo after 8 hours on a bus from Mérida. Despite deliberate efforts, we managed to arrive in the dead of night and, against our own common sense, we sought a ride to Maicao while it was still dark out. All the research we had done said that a por puesto was a common, easy, and inexpensive way to get through both Venezuelan and Colombian borders, but we realized at the bus terminal that we had no idea how one looks. A man in a white button-up led us to a man in a t-shirt who led us to a man with an old, beat-up, sketchy-looking car, the kind we would have avoided under any other circumstances. We paid him the fare, looked at each other and shrugged as he solicited for more passengers. 

When it came time to go, we threw our bags in the trunk and reluctantly got into the back seat. The driver's friend suspiciously drove alongside us in his own death mobile for some time and they even stopped at a house for some gas. As the sun slowly began to make its appearance, though, we felt a slight burden lifted. The driver had an easiness about him, sweet talking the young lady beside him, moving to the blaring music, sipping coffee he'd bought from a street vendor and then tossing the cup out the window when finished. After 4 hours of dodging cars, driving against traffic, and passing in the shoulder, we finally made it to the border. He slipped some bills to all the right people to avoid harassment by the National Guard and Police. By request, we handed over a couple of bills and when one policeman dared pull him over, he got out of the car, threw a fit, and, just like that, was waved on. While getting our passports stamped, we watched on wearily as he waited patiently with our bags first in Paraguachón and then in Maicao and when we parted ways at the bus station, we all of the sudden felt vulnerable without him, left to figure out Colombia all on our own.

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In Travel, South America, Colombia Tags South America, Colombia, Maracaibo, Merida, por puesto, Paraguachon, Maicao
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SWEET WATER

December 6, 2014 Pauline Nguyen
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The bus station was a madhouse. People everywhere. Bags everywhere. Everything delayed. The 13-hour night bus to Mérida turned out to be more like 17 hours. But we weren't complaining. We traversed 650 kilometers in an air-conditioned double decker whose seats reclined just short of flat. Maleficent played in Spanish, keeping us entertained long enough before it was bedtime and then we slept and slept, and then we slept some more.

The same day that we arrived, we booked a tour to see the Catatumbo lightning, a phenomenon in Venezuela that occurs most days out of the year. There is no thunder and there isn't always rain. Some nights the flashes are so frequent that the whole sky is illuminated. 

A truck took us through the winding curves of the Andes mountains where clouds lingered among the treetops. We welcomed the temporary relief from the heat. A boat then took us under the harsh sun across the sweet water of the Catatumbo River to Lake Maracaibo. So many varieties of birds could be found, we couldn't miss them if we tried. Herons, orioles, egrets, vultures, hawks. We even caught glimpses of howler monkeys, caimans, and lizards. 

We slept away the day's pleasures that evening in a house on the lake. Hammocks strung across beams invited us in. By late night, early morning, we were awakened by the first flashes in the far distance. Bolts of lightning stirred and the sky lit up in the horizon. They were elusive, vanishing as quickly as they appeared. Long exposure experiments managed to capture bits and pieces before the stars began to fade, dawn began to break, and fishermen began their catch. Wishing for the lightning to be closer and more frequent, but settling for what we got, we crawled back into our hammocks and salvaged what sleep we could until it was time to start our journey back to Mérida.

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Water pup
Day-after-birthday birthday photo because you only turn 2 twice (and because lighting is better). 🎂
Happy #2 to the grandest love of my life. ❤️
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I thought we were social distancing. 🤔
Lunch from home with some attitude.
Quan’s labyrinth
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Water pup Day-after-birthday birthday photo because you only turn 2 twice (and because lighting is better). 🎂 Happy #2 to the grandest love of my life. ❤️ 🥰 I thought we were social distancing. 🤔 Lunch from home with some attitude. Quan’s labyrinth 💜💛 ❤️

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